Galveston was not an obvious port for me to pick- Miami would have been the more
likely choice. The price of the cruise, combined with the itinerary and
strangely enough, the cheaper airfare from Buffalo to HOU, all factored in my
choice of this cruise and port. Unfortunately, I cannot give high marks to
Galveston as a cruise port.
Flying into and out of Hobby airport was wonderful. It is so small that I
returned the next day to pick up two more in my group, both on different
airlines, and all I had to say was “look for me outside.” It is literally a
straight shot from HOU to Galveston. I got to the hotel based on directions my
seatmate on the plane gave me- and I didn’t even write them down. It is that
easy.
I rented a car from Enterprise, and it was very easy to pick up. I went to the
counter, they ran my credit card, I jumped on the shuttle, picked up my Impala,
and voila! 75 miles per hour to Galveston (I don’t recommend going any slower or
you will be run off the road). It takes about 45 minutes.
We stayed at the Victorian Inn Condo Hotel and Conference Center on Seawall. The
suites were fine. Nothing special. I paid 550 bucks for two nights, the first
night in a one bedroom suite (fine for me and my four kids) and the second in a
two bedroom (fine for us plus my mother and great aunt). The swimming pools were
excellent. The kids’ pool, which is huge and has a deep end, has a crocodile
raft and a mushroom fountain, along with a pirate’s cannon that shoots water.
Very nice. The continental breakfast was huge and included waffle irons and
fresh fruit. They have no problem with kids loading up plates with food and
taking them back to the room- great practice for the cruise.
There is a Kroger Signature store down the street, and the suites have
kitchenettes (NO STOVE - so don’t buy pizza!). This cuts down on the food bills
considerably.
The problem with Galveston is the smell. I am not joking. How can I describe the
smell… take one part paper mill, one part dead fish, two parts rotten eggs and
about ten parts straight garbage. If it is possible to add a salty after taste
when you swallow, add it in. The beach was grim. One night we were walking on
the beach, with our heads turned towards the water in an attempt to breathe
normally, and one of my sons said “Oh look, how nice, a picnic!” I turned to
look and of course it was two heavily tattooed teenagers smoking and eating a
pizza (box was in the sand), drinking 40’s and sitting on a decades-old Kermit
the Frog kiddy sleeping bag. This was the scene.
The morning of the cruise I dropped my party off at the cruise terminal and took
the car back to Enterprise. My mother and great aunt, hereinafter referred to as
The Ladies, took the hotel shuttle, which was nice and fast. The terminal is 5
minutes from the Seawall hotels. Enterprise was 20 minutes from the terminal,
and it was a disaster. I walked in and there were people CRYING in the office.
The office was staffed by one man and the computers were down. There were about
ten of us waiting to drop cars off- Enterprise will only let one person in your
party use the shuttle, FYI. The problem was that there were easily ten people
who had just gotten off the Elation waiting to pick up. These people were
standing in line, calling people at the terminal, calling the airlines,
literally missing flights waiting. They were begging for cars, we were standing
there holding keys. Eventually the guy just said “here” and grabbed our keys and
gave them to the others (sensible). FYI- Enterprise charges a 250 dollar
deposit- even if you picked the car up that morning. No computers means no way
to settle up with Enterprise- unless you want to call from Belize on the way to
cave tubing. When I got home I saw that I had been billed 138.00 for Fri-Sun,
including the “drop charge.”
This whole process took place at 12:30 pm. This prepared me well for the
debarkation when we returned. I knew there was no way we were getting off that
boat until noon and I was right.
The main problem with Galveston’s cruise terminal is that there is literally a
two lane road leading to the terminal. Two lanes. 2000 people getting off the
Elation, 2000 getting on. You basically have to open the door, kick your
passengers out, throw their luggage at them, and step on the gas.
Embarkation seemed a little long, but I think I’ve been lucky in the past. It
took about an hour and a half after I got back from Enterprise. Part of the
holdup was due to about four of the ten windows being staffed with agents, and
for some reason people still keep bringing arcane forms of ID. I am glad
passports are about to be mandatory.
THE SHIP:
The Elation has seen better days. I’m just going to knock that one out of the
box from the get go. There is a pervasive use of plastic tubing throughout- no
other way to describe it. It is like PVC pipe that has been painted a dark gold
color, and it lines the ceilings, some of the walls, parts of the elevators, and
it is present in every common area of the ship. It is fine- I am not objecting
to the artistic value of it. The problem is that it has been dented heavily in
areas and it can get to be a distraction if you let it. The carpets are stained-
yet also actively dirty. The old and the new, working in harmony to give the
overall impression that 100,000 people have walked on them in the last year,
which of course they have. The steps are carpeted a light beige, which boggles
the mind. There are dust bunnies running along the sides of the stairs. I kept
wishing I could give Jose (more on him later) my Dyson for him to go wild with.
The above can be considered a disclaimer. This boat ROCKS.
THE CABIN:
I was traveling with four sons, ages 15, 13, 11 and 7. One cabin. The Ladies
each had their own cabin. We were all on the Main Deck- I was in M65, a quad
cabin with a rollaway (rollaway is the wrong term- it is really a mattress on a
plastic webbed frame- very comfortable). For a regular stateroom it was huge.
There were two full closets, plenty of drawers, and a floor to ceiling set of
shelves. The suitcases fit under the beds. There were also plenty of hooks,
small shelves, and the bathroom had a two door medicine cabinet. The beds were
very comfortable- even the bunks. The blankets and duvets were fine. One small
problem- the room smelled of smoke. One kid said to me on the fifth day “It
finally doesn’t smell like smoke any more” and he was right. When are cruise
ships going to confine smoking to one or two areas? Doesn’t that make sense? One
moderate problem: the pillows smelled like… people. Having no options there
(“Jose, can I have a pillow that smells less like people than the other 10
pillows in the cabin?”) I decided not to let it bother me.
THE COMMON AREAS:
I had read about the 7 story atrium and it is kind of cool. Truth be told, if
you’ve seen a six story atrium, or even a middling 5 story grand centrum, you
get the picture. I wasn’t wowed by it, although it is beautiful. Elation Way,
however, is mind boggling for a ship this size. It is a clear shot right through
three quarters of the length of the ship, and it is very broad. The casino, the
coffee bar (Musical Café), and several other cafes and discos are integrated
into the flow of Elation Way. It is impressive- almost intimidating when you
first arrive. There are little groupings of seats in the promenade area of
Elation Way, and one night the party moved out of one of the lounges and about a
hundred people were doing the Electric Slide right out in the promenade. It was
thrilling and I was so glad that I ran into my kids at that minute- they were
looking at me and I was looking at them and the same thought was running through
our minds: “How cool is THIS?”
There are three pools on Elation. The main pool, on Lido Deck (of course) has a
150 foot water slide. My recommendation: go on the slide. Again and again and
again. The Lido Deck area is very congested the first day at sea, but things
calm down once the gamblers start to keep their hours, the little kids keep
their hours, and the sunburns start to take their toll. Chair saving isn’t
really an issue, probably because I made sure to save my chairs EARLY… joking…
but not really. The upper deck that looks over the pool is the best seat in the
house. You can see the pool if you wish, but the view of the ocean is gorgeous,
and the waiters are always available, and the wind blows, and it is the most
relaxing place on Elation. The other two pools are children’s pools, and they
are on different decks. Not much to say about them- they hold water- that’s
about it. There are Jacuzzis- two for adults and one for children.
The gift shop is big. Very big. The Mikado Lounge is next door- check out the
curtain. It is gorgeous- it shimmers and sparkles and I couldn’t keep my eyes
off of it. I would go in there when it was empty just to look at that curtain.
The shows were hit or miss. One night was excellent, the next night I couldn’t
help but remember Simon Cowell’s remarks on American Idol: “You look like a bad
cruise ship act” and “You are destined to spend the rest of your life singing on
a cruise ship.” Some parts were excellent, some had you eyeing the doors. The
Dave Blazer Band was outstanding. The whole “going to the show” angle has been
hard for me to warm up to. I guess the point is not whether it is good enough to
make you get in your car in -5 degree weather and pay 50 bucks for it, the point
is whether it is worth rolling yourself out of the dining room and sitting
through it. YES.
THE FOOD:
The Lido deck outside buffet- basically a glorified hamburger stand- was very
good. Breakfast was served there, along with burgers and chicken dishes in the
afternoon. My kids went there for the first of their three French meals a day-
French fries, that is. Lemonade, iced tea, fruit punch, coffee and hot chocolate
are available there 24/7.
Tiffany’s, also on the Lido deck, is the main buffet restaurant and one of two
options if you don’t want to eat in the main dining room(s). The other is room
service, which is complimentary and available 24 hours a day. Tiffany’s is fine-
much, much better than the buffet options I have seen before. There are the
usual omelette stations, carving stations, etc., and quite a few daily options
at lunch and dinner. It is a nice looking restaurant and very well staffed.
Considering that it feeds more people that any other restaurant on the ship, it
is a relatively calm, attractive and inviting place.
The main dining rooms- the Imagination and the Inspiration- continue the
PVC-pipe theme and are a little too dark and over the top for me. The service
was excellent. We picked the early seating- something I will never do again. It
is impossible to get back from shore excursions- or even from the pool- and get
dressed in a relaxed fashion and still be in your dinner seat at 6:15. The crew
does an excellent job of serving on schedule, but one gets the feeling of being
hustled out the door pretty fast after eating.
The food in the main dining rooms ran the gamut from very good to… pretty good.
A few highs and no real lows… except for the desserts. The desserts throughout
the Elation- Tiffany’s, main dining room, Musical café (which you have to pay
for), room service- were all utterly tasteless. Even the chocolate buffet was
bland. The menu was creative, the presentation was excellent, and all in all the
dining room experience was quite nice. The waiters did a little song and dance,
excuse me: “boogie-boogie,” every night. We all loved it until night four, when
we began to feel sorry for our friends, the waiters. By the time they sang
“We’re leaving… on a Fun Ship…” to the tune of Leaving on a Jet Plane we were
cringing.
THE CREW:
Hard working, friendly, competent. How hard working? Every day, all day. We
leave and the next pax get on in one continuous motion.
I would be remiss if I didn’t specifically mention two people who went above and
beyond the call of duty to make our vacation so outstanding. The first is
Rajesh, a waiter from India who I first met in Tiffany’s. He was incredibly
professional, solicitous, friendly, and really took the time to talk to my
children. It was so nice to walk into Tiffany’s, catch his eye, and have him say
“I saw two of them before but they headed that way…” With everything that man
has to do he still had the presence of mind to give me the heads up about where
my children were. He showed us magic tricks, including one that left us
speechless and has nothing to do with magic and everything to do with skill.
Unbelievable. My kids absolutely loved him- even my 15 year old. The next is
Irina, our headwaiter in the main dining room. Again- professional, courteous,
and service above and beyond. I was dumbfounded when, on day three, she said to
my son “William, you will be having Ranch with your salad again?” DO THE MATH:
2000 pax, week after week, nine month contracts- and she knows what the
preference of an 11 year old is after two nights of serving us.
Carnival is lucky to have these two- and they should be compensated for their
efforts. And they are waiters, not clowns. They should only have to dance once.
Our room steward, Jose, was jovial and responded to every request immediately.
He knew which cabin I was in from the moment I met him.
FOR KIDS
Camp Carnival has four age brackets- 3-5, 6-8, 9-11 (at this age they sign
themselves in and out as they wish), and 12-14. My seven year old loved it. My
11 year old was lukewarm about it, mainly because it detracted from the time he
spent wandering around the ship on his own, using his room key, throwing ice
cream cones overboard, etc. The counselors were fantastic. This is no place to
simply park your kid- there are activities going on all the time and the
counselors stick to the schedule. The first time I brought my 7 year old, the
counselor said “Do you like BINGO Hugh?” (Yes) “And do you like Starburst?”
(Hell yeah, see ya, Mom). He was gone.
If anyone has concerns about a 9 year old being able to cruise around the ship,
checking himself in and out of CC, even while the ship is in port and the
parents are off the ship, don’t worry. That was one of the best things about the
trip- my children were respected and not treated like infants. The 13 and 15
year olds (Nick and Woody) were gone all night. They would come in around 2am,
just as the 11 year old (William) and I were finishing room service and watching
a movie. William had free run of the ship and usually came in at night just
because he wanted to play GameBoy- and that was very late. One of us would go
back to the cabin with Hugh at around 10, he would fall asleep immediately, and
then we would take turns keeping an eye on him. Parents who want freedom for
themselves and their children should cruise Carnival. The crew keeps an eye on
the kids, families are around, things are happening, and I never had any fears
about my children. By the last two days my 7 year old was keying himself into
the room and going around on his own without any problem.
AMENTITIES:
I don’t want to waste a lot of time here reciting a laundry list of things that
are easily available elsewhere… but here are a few.
Laundry is 4 bucks a load, and there were always washers and dryers available,
as well as irons and ironing boards. The TV plays three movies a day- family
fare. Also: CNN, Cartoon Network, and endless loops of shipboard hijinks. There
is a topless area. The purser has stamps of each port of call. The photo area is
packed but developing your own rolls is only 7 bucks. I dropped off the last
roll at 10 the night before we left and picked them up the next morning.
THE FUNNEL:
No review of Elation is complete without a short study on the funnel. It is the
most intimidating thing I have ever had the good fortune/misfortune to live and
breathe under in my life. I think if I set up a tent under the Eiffel Tower that
would be less imposing- mainly because the funnel is ALIVE. The funnel is the
God of the ship. Think Hawaii. Every so often, while one is gazing at the
funnel, it will emit a great cloud of black smoke from one side of the funnel.
No way of knowing why that side, or what the passengers did to deserve it.
Sometimes a thin trickle of smoke comes out of both sides- why? It looks… angry.
I am serious- this is the feeling you get. I was not the only one who felt that
way. One night I was standing alone on the jogging track at the front of the
ship watching an enormous full moon. A guy came up and said, in awe, “isn’t it
HUGE?” and of course he meant the funnel. Even on the tender from Belize people
were looking at the funnel and saying “Wow.”
THE PAX:
I sweated bullets on this one before we left. I was worried about out of control
kids, wild boozers, people grumbling that there was no Wal Mart in Belize,
people ordering three entrees at dinner, etc.
None of the above. The kids were wonderful. People were having a good time and
being pleasant while doing so. It was a solid cross section of… the middle
class. No highs, no lows.
Elation’s home port is Galveston, and Houston has a large minority population.
This was by far the most diverse group of people I have ever cruised with, and
that was a major plus. There was a big group of black women from some church on
board, and they OWNED the karaoke contest. They were a lot of fun. There was
some serious dressing up on formal nights by the African American people on
board, and I appreciated it. My last cruise was a bit downmarket in terms of pax-
but this one had a very large group that dressed to the nines and behaved in a
very elegant fashion. There were also a lot of Spanish speakers on board, which
I appreciated.
PORTS OF CALL:
PROGRESO: Several alternatives went through my mind as I took the bus from
Progreso to Merida: was this some sort of joke? Is CCL in dire straits
financially? Do they think we are stupid?
I remember reading that this was the World’s Longest Pier or something along
those lines. Aren’t piers supposed to be elevated, or at least pier-like? This
is a man made peninsula from Hell, with concrete trucks rumbling by at breakneck
speeds, and in the distance, piles and piles of broken concrete, rusty ships,
third world industrial things… and this was before the ride from the ship to the
end of the pier. Never has the word “shuttle” meant so little.
The little shopping area in Progreso is where you should pick up your trinkets,
jump back on the “shuttle” (imagine Tom Sawyer’s school bus preserved in acid
and then carted on a rusty barge to Botswana, used there for a century, and then
hauled here), and kick it back to the Lido Deck. Do not, repeat, do not go to
Merida. It looks up to being Tijuana. I know there are aficionados of Merida,
and you would do well to read their reviews. I am calling it the way I saw it,
and I saw nothing redeeming about the place but the cathedral, a picture of
which will accompany this review.
My mother and the big boys went to Dzibilchaltun and they absolutely loved it.
They ate in a café in Progreso afterwards and loved that, too. I should mention
that my mother is Cuban and obviously fluent in Spanish, so she managed to find
some off the beaten path taqueria that was some kind of undiscovered gem.
Whither Progreso? Why would anyone who is not an Amnesty International rep want
to visit there? What part of “cruise ship vacation” says Progreso? Mayan ruins?
Give us an extra day in Cozumel and we’ll see them from there.
COZUMEL: Thank you, Carnival. Now I understand. You wanted us to see
Progreso FIRST, so we would love Cozumel even more. Cozumel is beautiful. We
walked off the pier (2 minutes) and grabbed one of the clean taxis from a very
organized taxi stop. There are the usual guys standing around with pictures for
shore excursions, and when I asked one about Chankanaab park he directed me to
the taxi stand- no haggling, no trying to sell me.
I have to say that my preparation for Cozumel consisted of reading the CCL shore
excursion description that morning. I decided to just get off and do it myself.
It cost 16 bucks each (4 for the cab and 12 for the entrance to the park). The
taxis then wait by the dozen outside of the park to take you back to the ship.
You can easily walk off the ship at your leisure, grab the taxi, go to the park,
snorkel (incredible), swim, read, tan, go back to the ship, eat at Tiffany’s if
you feel like saving money and eating in the AC, shower, change and go BACK to
Cozumel and shop.
There is a dolphin swim at Chankanaab that I had wanted to do, but the kids were
creeped out by the moral implications of keeping dolphins in a pen to give rides
to cruise ship passengers, so we passed.
BELIZE: The tender situation was not good. In keeping with my general
vacation vibe I wasn’t worried, but there were people who were getting very
angry and abusive to the CCL girl in charge of giving out tender tickets.
Basically it went like this: “How many tender tickets do you need, sir?”
“THIRTEEN! I need them NOW! We are going DIVING and I have been here since
7:45!!! What kind of system is this???!!!””
We made it off on the second tender and not a moment too soon.
We opted to take Reggie’s A-1 Cave Tubing tour. It was excellent. He is great-
gave us a nice tour of Belize city on the way there. The ride is beautiful.
After you get to the staging area you walk about 45 minutes to the drop off
point, and when we went it was quite muddy and slippery. Not an easy walk if you
are out of shape, so be careful before booking this tour. The tubing was awesome
and the caves were very cool. It was definitely worth the 45 bucks a person that
this tour cost.
If I had to do it over I would book the Goff’s Caye excursion through CCL for
two reasons: the boat pulls right alongside, dispensing with the tender trap,
and the snorkeling in Cozumel was so incredible that I would have loved to
continue it on the Belizean barrier reef.
GENERAL VIBE:
Fun. Not contrived Fun Ship fun, but actual real live FUN. There was not a bad
moment on this trip. The cruise director was a bit wooden, but he was out of my
face and I can appreciate that. I saw him once. The announcements were few and
far between, and very low key. There was almost no hawking of jewelry at all.
BINGO was talked up, of course, but not much. I just didn’t get the feeling that
I was being sold something all the time, and that was a great feeling.
Every person I saw was having fun. Every smile I gave I got back. I was never so
relaxed in my entire life- and this was with four children on board.
EMBARKATION:
Not great. If I had a plane leaving at 1, or even 2, I would have been sweating
bullets. The whole system might have worked (although it is a bit Rube Goldberg-esque)
if customs had been staffed properly. Living on the Canadian border I see it all
the time- ten lanes with two open and a line of cars two miles long.
We cruised up to Tiffany’s at 8am with our carry on bags, figuring we would eat
and then be perfectly positioned to wait on the Lido Deck for our luggage tag
color to be called (like I said, Rube Goldberg: “Can we have the Peach Aft
people come forward now? So far we have called Peach Aft, Gray Fore and Red
Aft…”). You know how the time/space continuum can be tweaked, so that a century
passes in a second, and three hours in 100 degree heat outside on a pool deck
can seem like a century? That’s what it was like- except for me. I had seen the
mess at Enterprise and I figured it would be noon before we were called. We got
off at 12:30, and wisely I had booked to Carnival transfers at the purser’s desk
the night before (33 bucks times 5 for me- WORTH IT).
CONCLUSION:
This was a cruise that had so many elements which could have wrought disaster.
There were two flights to HOU, the whole Galveston portion, the ship itself, the
ports of call, the money factor, the debarkation, the flights back… and there
was not one bad moment. Not one. Nobody even stubbed their toe. It was total fun
from the beginning to the end, and we will never forget it. No matter what
future cruises I take in my life, this is the one against which all others will
be measured.
I encourage single parents to cruise Carnival. You will find others of your
species aboard. All families were having fun because the kids were having fun.
Camp Carnival is ready and waiting to take your child at any time, and the kids
are ready for a little AC and computer time, too.
Singles should also book a cruise on Elation. It isn’t a singles cruise, per se,
but there were many single people on board- even single people traveling solo.
I will definitely cruise CCL again if the opportunity arises. I am going to cut
Galveston a wide berth, but I was pleasantly surprised- shocked- at the Carnival
experience.